Viviane Cooks

Tuesday, October 21, 2008

October 21, 2008

In your basket

Broccoli
Cauliflower
Carrots
Collards
Delicata Winter Squash
Oregano
Potatoes
Purple Top Turnips (with greens)
Shallots

Bosc Pears
Fortune, Winesap, Mutsu & Golden Delicious Apples

I don’t know about you, but I’m just crazy for these fabulous fall veggies and fruits! It always amazes me how the seasons are perfectly in sink with everything else. Who would want to eat a strawberry now? Not me! I’m just so thrilled with all these scrumptious apples. They find their way in my bowl of granola every morning – I taste fall!

And the delicata squash? They are so delicious and tender, you don’t even have to peel them… and I have the perfect recipe for you today: pan-roasted delicata squash with brown butter and sage.

As for the broccoli, I can’t wait to make a flavorful pasta with it. From now until spring, I will be making these ziti with broccoli as least twice a month. Sometimes I serve it plain (without the goat cheese and lemon oil) with a little parmesan. Sometimes I use Mezzi Rigatoni or Penne Rigate. It’s our comfort food! (BTW, I love to serve this dish with a Syrah - it pairs beautifully with the earhtiness and spicniness of this dish)

Shallots are another favorite of mine. They are so delicate and mild! I love to make a basic shallot vinaigrette with them: 1 small shallot, very finely chopped, 1 tablespoon vinegar (balsamic or sherry), 3 tablespoons olive oil, 1/8 teaspoon salt and black pepper to taste. This vinaigrette is wonderful with lettuces that are a bit spunky, such as arugula and escarole. You can also add 1 ½ teaspoon of Dijon mustard to it and have yet another variation – perfect with romaine or spinach!

The purple top turnips are inspiring me to create a soup with both roots and greens. I’ll be working on it in the next couple of days.

The potatoes will probably end up mashed (unpeeled – it has so much more texture and flavor that way!). The collard greens will be sautéed with a little garlic and red pepper flakes – a classic way to cook leafy greens (see September 9 Kale recipe). The carrots will be roasted in the oven (unpeeled too!) with a little olive oil and oregano. These side dishes might be humble, but they are wonderfully earthy and satisfying!

Happy cooking and bon appétit!

To subscribe to Viviane’s monthly newsletter featuring new recipes and videos, go to foodandstyle.com
 
 
   Pan–Roasted Delicata Squash with Brown Butter and Sage – Serves 6
 
2 lbs Delicata winter squashes
3 tablespoons brown butter (see cook’s note 2)
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
20 fresh sage leaves
1/4 teaspoon sea salt or to taste
freshly ground black pepper to taste

Preheat oven to 450°F.

Step 1: Rinse the squashes, pat dry and remove stems. Cut in half lengthwise and scoop out seeds with a spoon. Then cut each half lengthwise in 3 x 1/2” slices.
Step 2: Heat a large, non-stick frying pan over medium-high heat. Add the brown butter, oil and sage leaves. Sauté for 2 minutes until the sage leaves are crispy and dark. Remove the sage and transfer to a small bowl until ready to use. Add the squash slices to the hot pan and sauté for 2 to 3 minutes on each side until golden-brown. Remove from heat. Place the squash slices on a non-stick jellyroll pan. Drizzle with the leftover butter/oil from the pan and sprinkle with salt and pepper.
Cook’s note: The squash slices can be prepared up to this point up to 6 hours ahead and kept, covered at room temperature, in a cool place.
Step 3: Bake in the pre-heated oven for 15 to 20 minutes until tender. Transfer to a serving platter, garnish with the sage leaves and serve immediately.
Cook’s note 2: To make the brown butter, heat 4 oz (1 stick) of unsalted butter in a small, heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium-high heat until it foams. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer the butter undisturbed until the milk solids are dark brown and the butter has a caramel color, about 8 to 10 minutes. Do not overcook as you might burn the butter. Strain the butter through a fine sieve or tea strainer and let cool to room temperature before storing. The butter will keep refrigerated for up to 1 month.
 
 
  Ziti with Broccoli, Fresh Goat Cheese and Lemon Oil – Serves 4 to 6
 
sea salt for the blanching water (about 1 tablespoon)
1 large bunch broccoli – florets cut in 1” pieces
1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil
1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon dried, red chili pepper flakes to taste
8 large garlic cloves – skinned and thinly sliced
12 oz ziti
1/4 cup reserved pasta water
1 teaspoon sea salt or to taste
freshly ground black pepper to taste

6 oz fresh goat cheese or fresh ricotta as garnish
lemon infused oil for drizzling

Step 1: Bring 6 quarts of water to a boil in a large pot. Fill a large bowl with cold water and several ice cubes.
Step 2: When the water is boiling, add the salt and the broccoli. With the back of a spoon, push the broccoli down so that all the florets are submerged in the boiling water. Blanch for 1 1/2 minutes. The florets should turn bright green. Drain and transfer to the iced water bath. Save blanching water to cook the pasta.
Step 3: When the broccoli is totally cooled (about 15 seconds), drain and lay out on paper towels to drain further. Set aside.
Step 4: Re-heat blanching water until boiling and add pasta. Cook pasta until tender but still al dente. Drain and shake off the excess water.
Step 5: While the pasta is cooking, heat the olive oil in a very large heavy-bottomed skillet over high heat. Add the red pepper flakes and garlic. Sauté for 15 seconds until the garlic begins to sizzle. Immediately remove from heat and set aside until pasta is ready. (The garlic will continue to cook slowly in the pan and become translucent).
Step 6: When the pasta is draining, reheat the garlic oil. As soon as it sizzles, add the broccoli and toss well to coat with the oil. Sauté for 1 minute until heated through. Add the pasta, reserved water, salt and ground pepper to taste. Toss well and remove from heat.
Step 7: Spoon pasta in bowls. Garnish with a little crumbled goat cheese or ricotta, drizzle with lemon oil, finish with a little freshly ground black pepper to taste and serve immediately.
Cook’s note: this pasta is also fabulous with broccoli rabe. Blanch it as above. Place in ice water bath and then squeeze out all liquid. Chop in 1” pieces and proceed with the recipe.

© 2008 viviane bauquet farre – food & style NY LLC



Monday, October 06, 2008

October 6, 2008

In your basket

Broccoli
Cauliflower
Carrots
Leeks
New red potatoes
Parsley
Pie pumpkins
Winterbor kale

Bosc pears
Spartan, Cortland & Jona Gold apples

It’s not until I received the latest Local Fork Newsletter that I found out that owner Charlie Strout loves potato salad: “all kinds” he professed! So I awaited this week’s basket with great anticipation, so that I could create a potato salad recipe just for him! Inspired by the south of France, I could eat this salad myself at least once a week… I’m there with Charlie!

The cool weather brings us the best of the fall veggies. I was extremely excited about the gorgeous cauliflower! The first of the season - so beautiful and firm! This one is going to make a perfect gratin. I guess I am definitely sticking to my French roots this week! Not only will I braise the cauliflower in shallots and wine until it is perfectly tender, but I’ll make a béchamel with lots of nutmeg and then I'll bake the gratin until it acquires a gorgeous golden color. Oh I’m already salivating! Come to think of it, you could make the same gratin with the leeks. But instead of braising them, I would suggest sautéing them in olive oil with ¼ teaspoon of red, chili pepper flakes for 4 to 5 minutes until barely golden. At that point, add a couple of finely chopped garlic cloves, 2 tablespoons of finely chopped parsley, salt and pepper to taste. Then you can proceed with the recipe as for the cauliflower gratin… YUM!

As for the rest of the veggies, I’ll make minestrone and improvise… Perhaps I can inspire you to do the same and share your recipe with us?

Last but not least, Bosc pears are a fabulous treat when poached in maple syrup and vanilla (a recipe I created during the years I lived  in Vermont). I serve them on their own or dress them up and make a maple-poached pear sundae. To learn more about the wonderful qualities of Maple syrup and for the recipe click here…

Happy cooking and bon appétit!

To subscribe to Viviane’s monthly newsletter go to foodandstyle.com
 
 
 
   Potato Salad with Cured Olives and Piquillo Peppers - Serves 4
 
For the vinaigrette
1 1/2 tablespoons aged balsamic vinegar
5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 small shallot – skinned and finely chopped
1 small garlic clove – skinned and crushed (use microplane grater)
1/4 teaspoon sea salt or to taste
freshly ground black pepper to taste

For the salad
1 lb baby red potatoes – unpeeled, boiled until tender and cut in 1/4” cubes
2 large organic eggs – hard boiled, shelled and cut in 1/4” pieces
1/3 cup pitted cured olives
4oz Piquillo peppers in jars (or roasted red peppers in jars) – cut in 1/2” pieces
1 large handful frisée leaves – rinsed, spun dry and leaves torn in 2” pieces

Step 1: For the vinaigrette, place all ingredients in small bowl and whisk until well blended. Set aside.
Step 2: Place the potatoes, eggs and olives in a bowl. Drizzle with 2/3rd of the vinaigrette and stir until well incorporated. Place few leaves of frisée in the center of each plate. Top with the potato salad. Drizzle with the balance of the vinaigrette, finish with freshly ground black pepper and serve immediately.
 
 
 
   Cauliflower Gratin with Nutmeg - Serves 6

For the cauliflower
1 large cauliflower (about 2 1/2 lbs) – florets trimmed from stalk and cut in 2” pieces
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes
3 large shallots – peeled, halved and finely sliced
4 large garlic cloves – skinned and finely chopped
3/4 cup white wine
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
freshly ground black pepper to taste

For the béchamel
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/4 cup unbleached white flour
2 1/2 cup milk
1/4 teaspoon sea salt
freshly ground black pepper to taste
freshly ground nutmeg to taste (use microplane grater)

4 oz aged Gruyère – coarsely grated
1 medium oval or rectangular ceramic or glass baking dish; or 6–1/2 cup capacity ramequins – lightly buttered


Pre-heat oven to 425°F.
Step 1: Heat a large heavy-bottomed skillet over medium-high heat. Add the olive oil, red pepper flakes and shallots and sauté for 2 minutes until the shallots start to soften but not brown. Add the cauliflower and garlic, toss well and sauté for 2 additional minutes until warmed through, tossing only a couple of times. Add the wine and toss well. Then add salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste, toss again. Reduce heat to medium-low and cover pan. Braise cauliflower for 8 to 10 minutes until tender. Uncover pan and sauté at high heat for 1 to 2 minutes until all juices have evaporated. Transfer to the prepared baking pan.
Step 2: In a medium heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium-high heat, melt the butter. Wisk in the flour and cook, whisking constantly for 1 to 2 minutes until the mixture becomes foamy and the flour becomes golden, but not brown. Quickly add the milk and whisk constantly until the mixture is well blended. When the mixture starts bubbling, lower heat and slow simmer for 6 to 8 minutes until the béchamel has thickened. Add the salt, pepper and nutmeg. Mix well and remove from heat.
Step 3: Pour the béchamel over the cauliflower and sprinkle with the cheese. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes until top is golden-brown. Remove from oven and let cool for 5 to 10 minutes before serving.
Cook’s note: The gratin can be baked, cooled and refrigerated up to 1 day or frozen up to 3 weeks. To serve, bring to room temperature and bake at 425°F for 8 to 10 minutes until hot.
 
© 2008 viviane bauquet farre – food & style NY LLC


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